Ornamentation of cloth



(No Model.)

C. J.. COX.

l ORNAMENTATION 0F CLOTH. No. 317,310.r Patented Mays, 1885.

NA PETERS. nmn-mhngnphu. waminglon. D. C.

ivrrnn STATES PATENT Ormea@ CHARLES JAMES COX, OF NOTTINGHAM, ENGLAND.

ORNAMENTATION OF CLOTH,

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No 317,310, dated May 5,1885.

Application @led June 10, 1884. (No model.) Patent-ed in England Augustl24, 1883, No. 4,113,- in France February 23, 1584, No. 160,521, and inGermany March 14, 1884, No. 29,434.

To @ZZ whom: it may concern,.-

Beit known that l, CHaRLns tTrains Cox, a subject of the Queen of GreatBritain, residing in Nottingham, England, have invented certain new anduseful Improvements in the Ornamentation of Cloth, of which thefollowing is a specification.

Hitherto net, lace, and tulle, and other fabrics have been ornamented bydyeing, by printing, by soufiiet, (gummed papen) or by pressingmetalized mastic onto the surface as an embellishment onY or to thesurface, or gum spots by sprinkling, or as beads have been fixed on, andmany pleasing and effective designs or devices have been producedthereby; but in all these cases, except in that of dyeing or printing,the body of the fabric has been increased in thickness or bulk, theembellishments being also of a fragile character and liable to losetheir brilliancy and spread by climatic action, particularly during dampweather, so as to affect the durability and the consequent utility ofthe article during use or wear. The purpose of my invention is toobviate these disadvantages and to produce an embellishment orornamentation of net, lace, muslins, and like open-worked fabrics of armer and more permanent character and less liable to be deteriorated byexposure or wear. At the same time no disadvantageous alteration is madein the original thickness of the fabric by my system of ornamentation,as it is applied, Without causing protuberances, in such a manner thatthe embellishments orornamentations are placed and held within themeshes and are caused to adhere with the requisite rmness to the threadsforming the walls of the meshes, the ornamented fabric retaining a datand level surface on both sides.

The adhesive body I prefer to employ for forming my designs orornaments, applied as hereinafter described, is india-rubber insolution. This being, when dry, pliable and dampproof it is not liableto crack or spread or detach itself from the fabric. rlhe india-rubber,when in a state of semi-solution and before the solvent has evaporated,is coated with metal in powder or with flock, with silk, or, in fact,with any substance capable of being applied or affixed to it, or whichmay attach itself thereon. The india-rubber, or its equivalent, isemployed as the ground-work to fill in the meshes and to receivesubstances or coatings which produces the ornamental effect desired.Where only one color-such as that of 5 5 goldis desired, the whole ofthe ornamental effect for a given length of fabric can be effected atone operation, so as to produce the necessary result; but when two ormore colors are necessary in the same given length of the fabric, itwill require to be operated upon separately for each color or tint so asto produce the desired effect. In cases where the fabric hascomparatively small meshes they may have holes made by piercers, such aswill push the surrounding meshes closer together. In the cases of somefabrics pieces may be punched out to form suitable openings into which asuitable viscid body-such as dissolved indiarubber-can be introduced forthe after application of powder to the surface or surfaces of theintroduced body or material, so as to produce the ornamentation orembellishment of said fabrics, as before set forth.

I do not limit myself to the use of any par ticular apparatus forcarrying myinvention into practice. I have found it advantageous toemploy pins of the same, or of varying diameters, the pins being soarranged as to conform to the sizes of the openings or meshes and to thepattern in the fabric which I wish to ornament, or to the ornamenteffect I wish to produce. As an example, as represented in the annexeddrawing, which is a side elevation, partly in section, of suitablemechanism, I arrangea number of pins, A, loosely in holes formed in aplate, B, each pin having ahead, so that it cannot fall through. Thesepins (preferably) pass through and project from another orguide-plate,C, to insure their being properly held, and having a Vertical action.The two plates B C, with the pins A, arer arranged over a bath ortrough, D, containing, say, very thin liquid rubber, over which thefabric E is stretched or drawn tight between a give-off roller andaskeleton take-up frame, F, to which an intermittent motion can begiven, as required, in any suitable manner.

After leaving the pins, the fabric passes through a heated vessel, G,(preferably,) or a heated plate, and thenV under apowder-discharging'reservoir, H, this having a motion while the fabric Eis at rest. Adjacent. to the reservoir H, I arrange a pressure-plate, J,beneath which is a table, K, fitted under the upper layer of an endlesstraveling belt, L, and between this and the take-up frame I fit brushesM M.

The operation is as follows: The piucarrying plate B has a downwardmotion, so that the points or free ends of the pins may pass Ythroughthe meshes of the fabric E; but as the pins are close together seme ofthem may lodge on the threads of the fabric, and should this happen theguide-plate G should be moved, so as to shift the intercepted pins overthe meshes, into which they fall for their points or ends to immersethemselves along with the others in the bath of liquid rubber. Thepincarrying plate B is then raised to draw the pins up and out of thebath and up through the meshes of the fabric, the rubber or othersolution being rubbed and dislodged lfrom the pins by friction againstthe threads forming the sides or walls of the meshes and attachingitself within the meshes. The fabric is then moved on a stage, and thepart thus operated on enters the heated chamber G, to cause sufcientevaporation of the solvent as to allow of the rubber or other solutionbeing reduced by heat to the required comparatively solid vand compactcondition, so as to form diaphragms in the meshes operated upon. Thefabric, as it leaves the heated chamber, passes over without touchingthe endless belt L of sheet-rubber,- and under without touching thesuspended powder-reservoir H, which has a motion imparted to it. Themouth of the reservoir rests and slightly scrapes upon a fine screen,through which the powder passes. The

powder is caused to fall in a shower upon the fabric at the part wherethe liquid rubber has been applied and adheres to the applied solution,some of it falling through the open meshes,whieh have not had the rubberapplied, onto the rubber belt beneath. The belt L is set at an inclineand at its higher level passes over and in contact with a table orperfectly flat slab, K, this having a press-head or force, J, above,which can descend and exert a pressure on the fabric, so as to put theunder surface of the fabric into contact with the powder which is uponthe belt, so that the then nearly dry rubber in the meshes may take andbe be coated with it, and at the same time be slightly embedded intoboth surfaces'. The pressure is relieved and the tension of the fabriclifts it from the table, so that the fabric may pass on another stageand between a pair of revolving brushes, M M, which remove thesuperfluous powder before the fabric is wound upon the skeleton frame F.The endless belt L works in a vessel or box, P, and the powder on it nottaken up by the rubber in the meshes falls from it into the box and iscollected to be returned to the reservoir H, when necessary.

I claim as my inventionl. The within-described method of ornamentingfabrics having perforations or openings therein, consisting in applyinga viscid substance to the inner edges or surfaces of said openings andthen applying a powdered substance to such viscid substance within theopenings or perforations without increasing the thickness of the fabric,substantially as described.

2. rlhe within process of applying a viscid substance to a perforated orapertured fabric to prepare it to receive further ornamentation,consisting in applying said'viscid substance to the inner edges orsurfaces of the openings in the fabric without applying it to theoutside surface of the fabric, substantially as described.

f In witness whereof I have hereunto signed my name in the presence oftwo subscribing witnesses.

CHARLES JAMES COX.

Vitnesses:

WILLIAM THOMAS GRTWRIGHT, 13 Low Pavement, Nottingham, Solicitor.

HERBERT VALKER BULL, Belmont Square, Walker Street, Swinton, Nottingham,Soltctors Clerk.

